Shashlik!

Early one sleepy hot afternoon we sat around the table in Lucy's apartment in Kramatorsk eating арбуз (Kusna! Kusna!) and waiting for Irina and Dima who had gone to the grocery store for supplies. These supplies included a dozen plastic 2-liter bottles of Russian beer (Piva), meat, onions, charcoal, tomatoes, chips, bread, and 5 liters of vodka and klukva. These provisions were for an experience we won't forget if we live another century, a real Ukrainian barbecue known as "Shashlik". Here is how this long afternoon went.......The car you see below is a Lada. The Lada (which shares it's name with a type of Russian cheese) is the definitive Russian automobile, and has been the standard Soviet export since 1970. Ladas can be found throughout  Russia and other eastern European countries and are a symbol of city life from Prague to Havana. This Lada's proud owner is our cousin Dima.

Once all the provisions were loaded into the Lada, all that was left was to get all 6 of us in there with them. The Lada comfortably seats 4, so this would prove to be an adventure in itself.

How do you get 6 adults into a 4 seat Lada? It goes something like this....Dima drives, his Mom Irina sits in the front passenger seat, the 3 Americans sit in back, and the babushka lies down across their laps horizontally. I swear to Trotsky I'm not making this up. Seatbelts are not a Ukrainian custom. Lucy thought it was big fun and laughed all the way out of town, till she finally fell asleep, her head on my lap, her hips on Liz's lap and Zach holding her feet. The drive to the forest lasted about 2 hours, Here is a sample of some of the scenery we saw along the way.

After scouting the countryside for the perfect forest, Dima finally pulled off the road for the drive to the right spot for our Shashlik. He had us get out of the car and left us to wander around while he drove off into the woods till we could no longer see the Lada. While we waited, unsure of where he went or when he would be back, we walked around taking in our surroundings in the dry heat of the Ukrainian pine forest. Here we are waiting. And waiting and waiting.

Here is an old picture tube we found in the grass in this pretty little meadow. Unfortunately litter like this was very common.

Lucy and Irina started to lose their patience with Dima and began calling his name. We joined in and the silence of the forest was shattered by the 5 of us crying out "Dima"! "Dima!" DIMAAAAAA!!!!!. As his name echoed from the tall pines, we could hear the Lada approaching. With the return of our boy scout, we all piled back in for the drive to the spot. I didn't see the written rulebook for Shashlik, but apparently it must be done as far back into the woods as you can get a vehicle, and Dima was not one to break the rules.

About a mile and a half later we arrived at the perfect location for Shashlik. Dima got the grill ready while Liz and Lucy spread out the blankets.

                                                         Here is Irina skewering the meat

              The Piva was wrapped in plastic to keep it cool. Ice is also not a Ukrainian custom.

                                                      Pretty soon the Shashlik was on!

                                             You can't have Shashlik without vodka!

                                                             Dima pours another one

Here I am with Cousin Lucy hoisting a lukewarm Piva

 After all was said and done, this was indeed a great afternoon.

The shots of Klukva were sweet

Our afternoon in the forest came to an end with sundown. I will say this...Not only is the Ukrainian forest quiet, at night it's darkest place I have ever been. After making jokes about bears and wild boars, Dima broke down the grill, we packed up our gear, piled back into the Lada and drove back to the road for the long dark ride back to Kramatorsk. As Lucy sang along with Depeche Mode on Dima's car stereo " Perrrsonall Jeeeesus!", I wondered what tomorrow would bring.